Houston Lifestyles & Homes January 2010
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Gardening Solutions
By Joel Kempfer, Horticulture Manager, The Brookwood Community
The Brookwood Community is an educational and residential facility designed to enhance the lives of adults with disabilities by showcasing their capabilities. Send questions to: joelk@brookwoodcommunity.org.
I received a beautiful potted Amaryllis as a holiday gift. When it stops blooming, can I plant it outside?

Amaryllis bulbs are a holiday tradition all across the U.S., but here they are also an easy perennial to grow in the landscape. When planted in the landscape they will bloom in the spring, with some varieties occasionally reblooming in the fall. It is up to you whether you plant them immediately after Christmas or continue growing and feeding them in the container until it warms up outside. After blooms have faded, cut the bloom stalks back to about 2 inches and fertilize regularly. Feeding after blooming is critical because it is at this point when the bulb begins storing reserve carbohydrates for next year ’s blooms. Slow release fertilizers are easiest, but at least one supplemental feeding with a water soluble high-phosphorous fertilizer is greatly beneficial if you are keeping it in the container for a while. Amaryllis that are forced to bloom for the holidays get thrown off their natural cycle. A regimented fertilization schedule gives you the best chance of them blooming the first year in the ground. If you don ’t mind the possibility of waiting another season for blooms, just plant the bulbs and let them establish on their own. Plant the bulb with the “neck” above the soil level in at least partial sun for best performance.

When is the best time to prune my Live Oaks?

There is growing concern in Texas about the spread of a fungal disease called Oak Wilt. It has killed many native oaks in the Texas Hill Country and continues to spread. Don ’t let this scare you; arborists in Houston have been talking about the spread of Oak Wilt for years and it has not yet become a major issue in the immediate area. But it is something we should be aware of considering there has been at least one confirmed case of Oak Wilt in Harris County. In Live Oaks, the disease is spread through root
grafts in large stands of the trees or in the case of the home landscape, through insect vectors. The best time to prune an oak tree in Texas is during the winter when the beetle vectoring the disease is inactive. Pruning should be avoided from February through June. Regardless of when the pruning is done, the Texas Forest Service and Houston Area Urban Forestry Council both recommend you immediately paint the wound with a light colored pruning sealer. I do not recommend the use of pruning sealers in most cases, but in the case of oak trees, it helps reduce both the amount and scent of the sap coming from the pruning wound. It is the scent of the sap that attracts the beetle vectoring Oak Wilt. It is also important to make proper pruning cuts to help the tree heal more efficiently. Avoid making flush cuts or cuts that leave stubs. Proper cuts are those made at an angle close to the main branch or trunk (as pictured), allowing the bark from the branch bark ridge and branch collar to cover and seal the wound naturally.



I know you should prune Azaleas after they bloom, but what about “Encore” Azaleas? Since they rebloom, can I prune them now?

If you prune now, you’ll be removing the growth, which will produce your spring blooms. EncoreTM Azaleas should be pruned immediately after spring blooming, just like other Azaleas. This is also when you should fertilize with Azalea food and replenish mulch as needed. Most of the Encore Azalea cultivars need very little pruning, but if you need to shape the plant, you may safely prune off about 1/3 of the overall size. If your Encore Azalea cultivar has a summer bloom cycle you may do some additional light shaping if needed after summer bloom, but I would not prune after the end of July because you will be removing developing flower buds for fall and spring.








Amaryllis.JPG
Amaryllis
I have an invasive vine that has taken over my landscape in the past year. It started on the other side of my property line and has now overtaken flower beds and even started choking out my trees. I had a landscaper remove it from the trees but it came back quickly. Can you identify this weed and tell me how to get rid of it?

Your vine is Dioscorea bulbifera. Its common name is air potato.  Unfortunately, you’ve got a very invasive and hard to control weed. It is capable of growing 8 inches every day and spreads both by underground tubers and the brown bulbils ( “potatoes”) on the top growth. The only way to control this vine is with discipline and determination. It will take multiple herbicide applications before it is killed completely. Start by again having the vine cut out of any trees in which it is growing because there is no way to spray the vine on the tree without damaging the tree. During this process, try to pick up all of the bulbils that may fall off the vine as it ’s removed. Any that are left around will sprout new plants and should especially be kept away from areas where it could be spread by the lawn mower. Ideally all vines will be cut to within about a foot from the ground.
Once this is done you’ll have a couple of different options for herbicide application methods; foliar spray on the remaining stems, or “painting” a gel on cut surfaces. The foliar spray is far less labor intensive but will kill any vegetation it contacts. The gel takes a little more work, but you are less likely to damage desirable plants or turf. The herbicides for both methods contain the same active ingredient —triclopyr. For the foliar spray I recommend Bayer Advanced Brush Killer PlusTM and for the gel I recommend Green Light Cut Vine & Stump KillerTM. If you can’t find these exact products, just look for something with the same active ingredient. Once the vines have been cut back, if the stems are in an area where you can do a foliar spray, spray the brush killer and check regularly for new growth that might require reapplication. If you use a concentrate instead of a ready-to-use spray, you ’ll have better results if you add a surfactant like Hi-Yield Spreader StickerTM. If you cannot spray without damaging desirable plants, take a cotton swab or small paint brush and apply the gel on the freshly cut surface of all the shoots coming out of the ground. Reapply as needed. If our winter temperatures stop the growth of the vine, wait until it starts putting on new growth before applying herbicide to ensure success. l
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